2020 Archives | Gardini Notes

Barolo 2017

admin — Sat, 13 Mar 2021 17:56:00 +0000

Great wines are produced from the Nebbiolo grape in the Langhe, a recently declared Unesco World Heritage site located in the Southeastern part of the Piedmont, near Liguria.

NEBBIOLO 100%

The Nebbiolo, which is divided into three sub-varieties: Lampia, Michet, and Rosé, is difficult to grow due to its extreme sensitivity to different soil variations. However, this delicate fruit produces a very persistent wine: the Barolo, which is impossible to discuss in terms of one only characteristic. This notable wine can be interpreted in different ways and characterized by distinctive aromas and flavors thanks to the heterogeneity of the territories, the many important crus, and its various vineyard expositions. In the Langhe, various soils and mineral deposits are present, which contribute to the many interpretations of Barolo. Sedimentary clay, the Sant’Agata Marls: chalk marls mixed with grey-blue sandstone, Diano’s sandstone: a dark grey sandstone interspersed with clay, and the formations of Lequio: red-gray stones striated with gray marls, are the important variances of the Langhe soil. The resulting Barolo is a fine, as well as, strong wine.

Contrary to popular opinion about vintage 2017, that is unfairly underrated, in my tastings I found a quality level from good to very good, with some peaks of extreme excellence, that confirm the steady progress in the Piemonte’s (especially in the Barolo) last releases. A vintage that shows good tautness and density, freshness and elegant tannins. An excellent vintage, in spite of difficulties, that also shows a fascinating aging potential.

Barolo (in 2018 composed of 253 ha):
• Fruity, fine, and strong wines. • Sarmassa and Cannubi are two important and well-known crus.

Castiglione Falletto (in 2018 composed of 145 ha):
• Densely elegant, solid wines with strong tannins and earthy flavors.
• Monprivato and Bricco Boschis are two important and well-known crus.

La Morra (in 2018 composed of 537 ha):
• Less structured wines with very strong aromas.
• Brunate and Cerequio are two important and well-known crus.

Monforte d’Alba (in 2018 composed of 461 ha):
• Wines vary greatly depending on hillside location.
• Characteristic salty feel.
• The Western side produces wines from Bussia.
• The Eastern side produces wines, such as Ginestra, Gavarini, and Mosconi, stronger in tannins.

Serralunga d’Alba (in 2018 composed of 353 ha):
• Fully textured wines that are sometimes quite rough and powdery.
• The flavors recai I red fruits preserved in alcohol.
• Vigna Rionda and Francia are two important and well-known crus.

Novello (in 2018 composed of 184 ha):
• Nascetta, a native white grape, is cultivated in this area. • The wines are often wild, minty, and spicy with good tannins.
• Ravera is the most important cru of this area.

Verduno (in 2018 composed of 1 0 9 ha):
• Pelaverga, a native red grape, is cultivated in this area.
• The wines are not as strong as those of Serralunga.
• Monvigliero is the most important cru of this area.

The other lands that typify the Barolo production area are Grinzane Cavour (60 ha) Roddi (24 ha) Cherasco (2 ha) and Diano d’Alba (20 ha) which is also well-known for the Dolcetto.

It is important not to generalize the Barolo. Each area, each producer, and obviously, each vintage could result in a wine that differs from the above indications.

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Moselle 2019 vintage

admin — Mon, 11 Jan 2021 14:13:48 +0000

The Moselle production area is situated on the river of the same name in the western part of Germany, bordering France and Luxembourg.

100% Riesling

Since Roman times this area has been known for excellent quality wines. Riesling is the variety that dominates the Mosel Valley. The production area of the Moselle, the third largest in Germany in terms of volume, also includes the vineyards situated along its Saar and Ruwer tributaries.

The components that characterize the wines of this area are:
• Earth composed of different colored slate, such as red, blue, gray, and their nuances.
• Riesling plants, in many cases immune to phylloxera. For this reason, in the Moselle vineyards, one can find 100 or more year-old vines.
• Very steep inclines, with altitudes in some cases, reaching around 80%. Given the structure of the land, the vineyard is almost entirely worked by manual labor.
• In many cases, the harvest involves several steps, both for the difficulty of the process and for the number of different labels produced here. For this reason, the grapes are picked at various degrees of ripeness.
• Despite the fact that the production area is farther north, the river still affects the temperature of the area and in a positive manner. It also plays an important role in the growth cycle of the plant by reflecting the sun’s rays and acting as a natural mirror.
• The exposure of the vineyards in the Mosel region mainly faces south.

In the cellar, the wines are generally produced in a simple manner, so as not to influence them by the use of wood, particularly that of small dimensions.
The characteristics that determine the wine cellar practices for Moselle wines are:
• Spontaneous fermentation.
• Vinification in steel or in very old and capacious barrels called ‘fuder’.
• One year of aging, often spent in the same containers used for the winemaking. The wine classification is complex and embraces dry labels (troken) in addition to sweet ones in which the Riesling grapes were attacked by noble rot (trokenbeerenauslese). The categories are determined according to the concentration of sugar in the wort (the value is calculated in degrees Oechsle).

Categories:

• Kabinett: must respect the grape variety and the production area. It can be dry or have some residual sugar.
• Spätlese: from the late harvest. Not only sweeter wines, but also exemplary ones that are more profound and concentrated. The grapes used for this category must have a perfect level of ripeness. Wines named spätlese can be either dry or sweet.
• Auslese: the term can be translated as selected harvest. For this category, grape bunches that have been attacked by noble rot, can also be used. Auslese wines can be both dry or have some residual sugar.
• Beerenauslese: the term can be translated as harvest of selected berries. It exists only in a sweet version.
• Trokenbeerenauslese: harvest of dry selected berries. Rare, sweet wines with a low alcohol content. During the production of this category, fermentation is rendered difficult by the high sugar content. The Trokenbeerenauslese (abbreviated TBA) can only be dessert wines.
• Eiswein: this ‘ice wine’ is made naturally from frozen berries. Wines of this classification have the same sugar content of Beerenauslese. This category consists of only sweet wines.

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Alto Adige White Wines

admin — Tue, 08 Dec 2020 21:24:58 +0000

Located in the Northern part of Italy, which borders Austria, the Alto Adige is one of the smallest wine production zones of Italy.

Notwithstanding this however, it has a high number of vineyards of varying sizes, all dedicated to cultivating a little more than 5000 hectares. The soils are characterized by the different altitudes (in some cases, 1000 meters above sea level), as well as by the varying geological compositions such as marl, limestone, shale, dolomite stone, gravel, and clay. All this, combined with a rather high number of vines and enological styles, render the Alto Adige one of the most dynamic production areas of the entire Italian enological panorama. The climate of the Alto Adige is influenced in a very positive way, by the Alps, which protect the surface from the cold winds of Northern Europe. The vine cultivation of the Alto Adige is composed in great part by those of white grapes, equaling 60% of the total production.

The most common of these are:
• Pinot Bianco: a vine of great elegance and acidity. Cultivated in 10% of the territory.
• Chardonnay: very diffuse in the area surrounding Bolzano and in the Valle dell’Adige.
• Riesling: great acidity with an equally long lasting quality. In the Alto Adige, it is often vinified, contrary to that which occurs in other parts of Europe, with almost no sugar.
• Gewürztraminer: literally “spiced” Traminer, present in 10% of the overall territory.
• Sauvignon Blanc: cultivated in 7% of the territory, the zones most suited are the South Tyrol and the Val Venosta.
• Pinot Grigio: makes up a little more than 10% of the cultivated surface of the region.
• Grüner Veltliner: this winegrape is used to make pleasantly aromatic wines, is a specialty of the central part of Val Isarco.
• Kerner: variety born from the union of Trollinger and Riesling. Late harvest grape. Very widespread, qualitatively speaking, in the Val Venosta.
• Sylvaner: grows very well in the Val Isarco.

Completing the list of white varieties are the Moscato Giallo, Veltliner, and the Müller Thurgau. Some excellent white wines of the Alto Adige are often products of a combination of some of the aforementioned varieties. This Southern Tyrolean area also offers red grape production. The most diffuse are the Lagrein, the Moscato Rosa, and the Schiava. However, more widespread are some international varieties such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Zweigelt. The territory of the Alto Adige is commonly subdivided into seven production areas, each with characteristics that render it unique.

• Bassa Atesina: heights up to 1000 meters above sea level, calcareous rocks, and dolostone, particularly in the Termeno area. Territory with a distinct trait of about 70% white grapes.
• Bolzano: area of reds, native to the Lagrein and to the Schiava.
• Oltradige: the most noted and important areas are those of the Appiano and of the Lago di Caldaro. Slight prevalence of white varietals.
• Valle dell’Adige: wines of strong flavor. Present here is the DOC Alto Adige Terlano, characterized by a blend of white grapes, in particular Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Grigio.
• Valle Isarco: adopted home of Riesling and Sylvaner. Produced here, almost exclusively white wines.
• Merano: primarily red grapes.
• Val Venosta: thin and sandy soils, which often translate into very elegant wines. Of the cultivation surface of the Alto Adige, 98% is protected by the DOC Alto Adige.

The Vintage 2019

The 2019 harvest in the Alto Adige region has to be regarded as one of the best, comparable to 2016, except for the volumes, about 20% less. Initially, the mild winter, associated with a very cold end of April-early May, made us think of a difficult vintage, similarly to the 2017 one, but the warm weather in mid-end June, with a correct flowering, and again, an extraordinary end of August/September brought good alcohol and great acidity to the white wines, while reds, especially the Pinot Noir and Lagrein, display a moderate alcohol and beautiful structure. They will be wines for ageing, longliving, properly made, characterized by finesse that will gradually strengthen with the passing of time.

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Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015

admin — Wed, 25 Nov 2020 21:07:25 +0000

The Brunello di Montalcino, DOCG since 1980, is produced in Tuscany about 40 km south of Siena, in the area of Montalcino. The wine takes its name from this Unesco World Heritage Site.

Sangiovese 100%

The Montalcino area is made up of about 24,000 hectares, although only 15% of these are dedicated to grape cultivation. The great Sangiovese variety, from which Brunello of Montalcino is made, is very sensitive to the land on which it is grown. Here in Montalcino several different geological typologies intersect, such as clay, tuff, and so-called original rocks, limestone and marl. These last two are found at the higher elevations. The higher location of the plants, together with a rich mosaic of variables, have determined the character of this Brunello, since its origin. The plants in the territory of Montalcino grow at elevations that range from about 120 to 650 meters above sea level. The cultivation area can be divided into four sub-zones, oriented according to the cardinal directions.

The most utilized method of vine training is that of spurred cordon. The Mediterranean climate tends to be dry, although some inflections of the continental climate are present. The nearby Monte Amiata often helps mitigate meteorological events of great intensity. In the cellar, the Brunello di Montalcino typically brings together several plots located in different areas of the cultivation zone to guarantee a wine not too homogeneous nor too distinguished by a single cru. Recently however, numerous agencies have developed a concept of viticulture that privileges wines obtained from a single vineyard, beyond the average geographical placement. The aging of the Brunello di Montalcino takes place in wood for at least two years during which the producer may choose the dimensions of the barrels. This is followed by 4 months in the bottle. In order to earn the distinction of riserva, the wine must be age for six years, subject to a period of at least two years of maturation in wood.

And finally the time has come to return to the 2015 vintage of Brunello. As I often say, there are no identical vintages, and this is also one of the marvels when making or dealing with wine. This 2015 vintage is marked by a great qualitative thickness. Perhaps it is not entirely homogeneous in the different areas of the Montalcino DOCG. In some cases, it reached historical peaks, while in others the releases are in line with the past ones. However, this is a vintage that displays density, thickness, a fruit of a beautiful tautness combined with excellent freshness, with undeniable qualities to develop, as demonstrated by these 2015 Riserve.

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Morellino di Scansano

admin — Mon, 16 Nov 2020 21:15:39 +0000

Despite being relatively recent, the history of Morellino di Scansano DOCG is deeply rooted in the ancient times. Numerous archaeological findings dating back to the Etruscan period, especially in the areas of Scansano and the Albegna valley, prove that the local production of grapevines was already fundamental for the Etruscans.

Other discoveries, such as terracotta jars containing some vitis vinifera seeds, bronze statuettes and other artefacts confirm the strong relationship with wine at that age. After having conquered the Fortress of Ghiaccioforte, around 280 B.C., the Romans took possession of the territories of Scansano and allow the further development of agriculture. Wine was thus produced for the western provinces of the empire, as evidenced by the discovery of several shipwrecks and kilns used for the production of wine amphorae, which confirm the flourishing trade, both by sea and through the Aurelia and Clodia roads. After a relative decline in the Middle Ages, during the 19th century the practice of the “Estatatura” (seasonal migration of people), inaugurated by Peter Leopold I of Lorraine in 1737, determined the arrival of the wealthy families in the Scansano area, encouraged by the Grand Duke to invest and enhance the Maremma district. It was a sort of peaceful migration, which lasted from June to October, where the public offices of the province of Grosseto moved to Scansano to escape malaria.

According to tradition, Morellino takes its name from the bay horses called ‘morelli’, which were used to tow the carriages of the families and officials when they moved to Scansano. The word ‘morelli’ evokes all the strength and intensity of this type of horses.
Morellino di Scansano became a DOCG wine 0 2 only with the 2007 harvest, even though it was established as a DOC in 1978. The DOCG regulations make some changes to the previous technical specifications, which are summarized below.

Production area

The historical one: the whole town of Scansano and part of the towns of Campagnatico, Grosseto, Magliano in Toscana, Manciano, Roccalbegna, Semproniano.
Grapes:
– Minimum 85% of Sangiovese grapes.
– Maximum 15% of other grapes from black grape varieties allowed in Tuscany (Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Malvasia, Colorino, Alicante, and more recently also Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah, and other international black grape varieties).
Production:
90 quintals per hectare (while the DOC regulation allowed 120 quintals per hectare).

Vinification:
The vinification process must take place only in the production area of the grapes, as provided for by the previous regulation dated back to 1978.
Bottling:
It must take place in the production area of the grapes, without prejudice to the right acquired by the firms that have historically bottled Morellino di Scansano outside the aforementioned area before the transition to DOCG.

This wine, in the “Vintage” type, shows a ruby red colour, a winy aroma with fruity notes, a good freshness and sapidity, combined with softness or sometimes a slight tannic texture. It can be marketed from the spring after the harvest. The Morellino di Scansano in its Riserva version has an intense red colour, which tends to become ruby red with aging, a fruity aroma (marasca cherries, red fruits and plum), spicy and vanilla notes. These characteristics are due to the long aging, at least two years, one of which in wood. When tasted it is dry, fullbodied, from slightly tannic to soft.

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Wachau Grüner Veltliner and Riesling

admin — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 20:52:15 +0000

The Wachau is an Austrian enological zone in central Europe. More precisely, it is located in the subzone of Lower Austria.

Since 2000 the Wachau is listed as World Heritage sites. In total, the Wachau is made up of about 1344 hectares of vineyards, including the cities of Melk and Spitz. One of the determining factors of the landscape, but above all, of the quality of the wines produced here, is the presence of the Danube. The river is not only capable of reflecting the light and the heat in the cold months, but also helps to mitigate the temperatures in the colder season.

As well as this aspect of fundamental importance, it is necessary to note that in the Wachau different climatic aspects intersect each other (it is a generally continental climate with fresh winds from the Pannonia). The result is an alternation of warm and dry days with cool nights. The geology of the area is rather varied, even if the most common structures are loam, kaolin, and gneiss. The terrain is very steep, so much so that often it must be terraced.

The principal varieties cultivated in the Wachau are:

Grüner Veltliner: white berry married with the Traminer and not related to the Roter Veltliner or the Frühroter Veltliner. With reference to all Austrian vineyard soil, the Grüner Veltliner occupies 29% of the total surface. This grape 0 2 tends to produce a lot; therefore, it must be kept in check, by the vineyard.

Riesling: late white berry that is not related to the Welschriesling. In the Austrian territory, the Riesling does not occupy many hectares, making up 4% of the land. However, in the Wachau, is the second most important grape in the area. Generally, in the cantina, these two varietals are fermented naturally in large barrels so old that they do not give up anything in terms of aromas, taste, or tannins. Since the mid-1980s, most of the vintners are members of the regional association, called Vinea Wachau, that used its own classification system, divided into three categories: Federspiel, and Smaragd.

Steinfeder: the name is derived from a type of grass that grows abundantly in the vineyards of the area. This type includes light wines, in which the alcohol grade never exceeds 11.5%.

Federspiel: the name comes from the practice of falconry and the hunting of a particular falcon that was very common in centuries past. The wines have an alcohol grade between 11.5 and 12.5%.

Smaragd: this category derives its name from a lizard of emerald color that is often encountered in among the vineyards of the area. It regards strong, rich, and complex wines that in many cases manage to age well for decades.

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Brunello di Montalcino 2016

admin — Tue, 20 Oct 2020 20:42:31 +0000

The Brunello di Montalcino, DOCG since 1980, is produced in Tuscany about 40 km south of Siena, in the area of Montalcino. The wine takes its name from this Unesco World Heritage Site.

Sangiovese 100%

The most utilized method of vine training is that of spurred cordon. The Mediterranean climate tends to be dry, although some inflections of the continental climate are present. The nearby Monte Amiata often helps mitigate meteorological events of great intensity. In the cantina, the Brunello di Montalcino typically brings together several plots located in different areas of the cultivation zone to guarantee a wine not too homogeneous nor too distinguished by a single cru. Recently however, numerous agencies have developed a concept of viticulture that privileges wines obtained from a single vineyard, beyond the average geographical placement. The aging of the Brunello di Montalcino takes place in wood for at least two years during which the producer may choose the dimensions of the barrels. This is followed by 4 months in the bottle. In order to earn the distinction of riserva, the wine must be age for six years, subject to a period of at least two years of maturation in wood.

For Brunello di Montalcino, the 2016 vintage will go down in history, even better than 2010 one.
A stylistic mark characterized by an extraordinary success, capable of enhancing winegrowing areas and slopes, combined with a very clean interpretation in wine cellar. Density, tautness, crunchiness of fruit, territoriality at its best in these bottles that offer a great depth. These 2016 Brunellos will have a very, very long life!

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Top Slovenian Rebula

admin — Fri, 09 Oct 2020 12:08:58 +0000

The Brda / Collio region is a wine area located in central and southern Europe, distributed over Italy and Slovenia.

Here different varieties are cultivated, in particular the white ones, which are then divided into native and international varieties. Among the white grapes, one of the most typical of the area is the Ribolla Gialla; called Rebula on the Slovenian side. Historically, this region has been called by many different names. The name that remains, however, is from the period in which this territory found its greatest notoriety. By the way, it’s impossible to speak about just one Rebula / Ribolla, since different types belong to this family, including the yellow grape varieties of small bunch grapes, variety of large grapes and even the variation of green Rebula. However, thanks to the climate of Brda, combining the freshness of the Alps, and the influences of the Mediterranean Sea, the wines of this region display a rich aromatic composition.

The most distinctive feature of the Brda wines is, however, their minerality, due to a particular component of the soil – the world-famous ‘ponca’, or Opoka. It is clear, however, that this is one of those rare cases in which a wine varietal, instead of dividing, unites two territories separated by a national border but sharing territorial and, consequently, wine-growing affinities. The rest is the magic of interpretation, which allows expert winemakers to experiment with fermentation and aging, and always having the identity of the wine in mind, to give the consumers all the beauty and variety of a wine varietal that holds some of the most remarkable winemaking experiences in the world.

Classical Rebula wines

This style of Rebula wines offers well-crafted fruitiness with peach, white flowers, citrus and apple notes. It is characterized by a persistent acidity, which has a remarkable impact alongside its distinct mineral note. These wines are ready to drink from now to up to 3 years. To obtain such wines, the grapes are exclusively handpiked from terraced vineyards, normally in mid-September, when optimally ripe. The yield per hectare is between 7 and 9 tons. The wines are matured in stainless steel or large oak casks from 6 to 18 months on selected, even indigenous lees, with or without malolactic fermentation.

Mature Rebula wines

The grapes are picked from grassy terraced vineyards, aged from 15 to 65 years, with yields from 4 to 7 tons per hectare. All the procedures in the vineyard are handmade, including the harvest, which takes place in late September, beginning of October, when the grapes have a perfect phenolic maturity. The winemakers can decide for a short to long skin contact. The fermentation is on indigenous lees and maturation in oak casks and concrete tanks of different shapes and sizes from 18 to 36 months, usually with MLF. The result are elegant and vibrant wines, rich in texture, with a complex character and disarming ripe flavors, but again marked with minerality and a lovely acidity which gives the wine the opportunity to age very long and well.

Extended skin contact Rebula wines

These white wines behave like reds. They perform very rich structure with smooth tannins, because they undergo maceration. The period of skin contact ranges from hours to days to months. The technique promotes the extraction of tannins, flavor compounds and color. The results can be dramatic, amping up body, texture and structure, as well as intensifying flavors, aromas and color. To rely on this technique, the grapes must be perfect, so the harvest happens only in the best vintages. Rebula with prolonged skin contact is carefully handpicked when the grapes are overripe, very often from organically grown vineyards with yields from 3 to 5 tons per hectare. It is barrel fermented with indigenous yeasts and then matured in oak barrels, concrete tanks of different sizes and shapes or even amphorae up to 10 years. These are substantial wines with distinct longevity.

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Franciacorta

admin — Tue, 15 Sep 2020 00:00:00 +0000

A spumante from the production area of the same name, in the province of Brescia. Situated between the southern part of Lake Iseo and the Oglio and Mella rivers.

CHARDONNAY / PINOT BIANCO / PINOT NERO

The modern-day borders of the Franciacorta zone were sanctioned in a document drawn up by the doge (a sort of governor) of Venice in 1429. The name Franciacorta has nothing to do with France, instead this area was once called Franzacurta. The vines here have very old roots, even if only as recently as the late 1950s, some producers began to produce base wines suitable for making sparkling wine. In 1967, the Franciacorta obtained the DOC (denomination of controlled origin) and around thirty years after, the DOCG (denomination of controlled and guaranteed origin). In 1990, a Consortium was created with the objective of guaranteeing and controlling the procedural guidelines of Franciacorta production. In the zone, however, a small production of still wines, both white and red (under the denomination Sebino IGT and Curtefranca DOC), remained.

The Franciacorta production zone (sparkling and still wines) covers quite 3000 hectares. Its geological structure is rather varied and includes:
• Fine deposits: rich soils of lime capable of producing wines with evident floral perfumes;
• Fluvioglacial: subtle soils resulting in mostly fruity wines;
• Distal Colluvia: wines with a strong floral character;
• Deep Moraines: wines with evident sensations of fruit and spices;
• Terraced Colluvia: profound soils that produce wines rich in complexity;
• Fine Moraines: give origin to spicy and slightly vegetal wines.
The grape varieties used for the production of the Franciacorta spumante were initially limited to the variations of Pinot (Blanc, Noir, and even, Grigio). In the 1980s, the gradual introduction of Chardonnay began. Along with Pinot Noir, it constitutes the duality that frequently determines the cuvée produced in this territory.

The Pinot Blanc can still be utilized, but only up to 50% of the wine’s total composition. Only recently the Erbamat, a indigenous grape, were introduced as well, only up to 10% of the wine’s total composition.

The effervescence of the Franciacorta can only be achieved through the method known as the method “Franciacorta”, which results in five different typologies:

• Franciacorta (at least 18 months on the lees, during the second fermentation in the bottle);
• Franciacorta Satèn (differentiated by the lack of Pinot Noir in the composition and by an inferior pressure, which results in bubbles that are more delicate);
• Franciacorta Rosé (must contain at least 35% of Pinot Noir vinified in rosé);
• Franciacorta Millesimato (At least 85% of the grapes utilized in this typology must come from the same vintage);
• Franciacorta Riserva (usually identified as the most prestigious wines of the winery). Perfected while resting on the lees, the amount of time depending on the typology. From the Franciacorta, ready at 18 months to the Franciacorta Riserva (including the Rosé and Satèn versions), which is put on the market at least five and a half years after the harvest. After the disgorgement, the wines undergo a dosage of additional wine and sugar, the quantity of which, results in further sub-typologies:
• Non dosato (also known as Pas Dosé): up to 3 gr/liter (natural residue of the wine);
• Extra Brut: up to 6 gr/liter; • Brut: up to 12 gr/liter; • Extra Dry: from 12 to 17 gr/liter; • Dry: from 17 to 32 gr/liter; • Demi-Sec: from 33-50 gr/liter

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Chianti Classico Riserva

admin — Sat, 01 Feb 2020 00:00:00 +0000

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